Day 8: Zafra to Villafranca de Los Barros

Today began with Mass with the lovely Claretian sisters in Zafra. The Claretian chapel and its Museum are really worth a visit, as is Zafra as a town. When I think that it is the same size as one of my parishes - Biddulph - and yet it boasts a castle and wonderful stylish shops, as well as several churches and religious communities, it is a town which bats above its average. Its parish church is quite splendid at least from the outside.

After coffee we headed out of town, helped by an elderly gentleman who told us the way to the St Francis tower, the last remnant of a Franciscan convent which once stood here, as the last outpost of the town. The Camino follows a pathway out of Zafra towards the nearby town of Los Santos de Maimona, only 4km away. There is a hill in between so we felt quite justified in stopping in Santos for a couple of coffees and toast with tomato and ham at the Santiago social centre run by a delightful couple under the name of 'Circle of Friendship'. 

The remaining 15.5km of the day (though I believe it was a little more) passed through vineyards and olive groves, private hunting grounds and pasture. From afar we already saw the town of Villafranca de los Barros, though the optical illusion at play on day 6 revisited us, and left us feeling we were closer to target than was truly the case. We ignored the signs and false yellow arrows which mendaciously tried to lead us to an alternative albergue. The pathway dropped down to where the main transport infrastructure was to be found. Having crossed the railway line, passed under the motorway, and followed the main road for a while, we found ourselves directed on a circuitous route through farm land to enter the town. 

And so, we eventually we arrived at the town of Villafranca de los Barros. Two lessons: seeing where you are heading to, from afar, is a disadvantage psychologically as, in the vastness of the country, it seems closer than it really is; thinking in advance that the shorter days are easier does not prepare you for the final haul involved every day.

Our persistence was rewarded with a kindly welcome from the lady at the Casa Perin hostal. It was even more rewarded by finding (providentially) a restaurant which was far better than we planned on. We were able to feast on roast suckling kid which was a rare delight. The chef, named Jesús, was particularly proud to show us what he could do. We greatly appreciated his efforts on what was otherwise a slow day for him as we were the only diners.

Tomorrow is the longest day...