One of the corollaries of Spain operating on Central European time, while being considerably further west, is that, in the winter months, day breaks rather later than e are used to. So, as we left our lodging this morning, it was as dark as the middle of the night, with accompanying chill in the air. This was 7.15am. After some looking around, Andy and I found the one bar inhabited by the early birds of the pueblo: workmen in boiler suits and older men looking for an early morning social outlet. No women dared stray into this male bastion of Spanish culture. The typical breakfast among the patrons seemed to be strong black coffee and a glass of either brandy or aniseed liqueur. So much for the Mediterranean diet.
After our rather tame coffee and pastry, the sun had risen, and we set out for the final 20km walk to Monesterio, the end point of my first jaunt on the Camino. Today's walk was divided in roughly two equal halves. The first part was along a country road made of compacted earth. No sooner had we left El Real, and its fortress, behind, we crossed the small, but very significant, stream. This marked the exit from the region of Andalucía and our entry into the Extremadura region. It was also marked by a further ruined castle. The roadway had the now familiar dehesa fields, with holm oaks and Iberian pigs, warming themselves around charcoal fires, and frolicking boisterously in the warmth of the newly risen sun. Eventually the fields of pigs have way to fields of cows and sheep. The oaks became more sparse, as did the vegetation. This change heralded the end of the first section of our walk. The sight of the very modern ermita, or chapel, of St Isidore brought us to the end of the country road, with its gradual incline, to the main road, parallel to the motorway, also called the Ruta de la Plata, and a rather steeper rise, which grew steeper all the 10km to Monesterio.
The change of terrain required a break. So we went to the bar attached to the pig abattoir and curing house of the famous black pigs and their ham. We took advantage of the rule of abstinence being less strictly applied in Spain to taste some of the local produce.
Once on our way, we realised we had no time to lose in getting to Monesterio. The road was less pleasant to walk along, though, as we rose higher towards the town which is 700 metres above sea level, we could look back on some breathtaking scenery. The route of the Camino took us of the main road eventually and on to a rough service road, which increased in gradient until we reached the brow of the hill: and there was the town of Monesterio.
It is a pleasant town built on the proceeds of the pork farming locally. Andy was impressed by the presence of a Ham Museum at the entry to the town,There where a busload of school children were learning about this important cultural reality. There was no time to explore: just time to get the credentials stamped and take the bus. We were waved off on our way by one of our German Camino buddies, Gavin. The bus was late, and we were surrounded by rowdy adolescents, but sleep prevailed until we were back in Seville, ready for a late lunch and the trip to the airport. So that's it for this Camino. ¡Hasta pronto, Camino de Santiago!
After our rather tame coffee and pastry, the sun had risen, and we set out for the final 20km walk to Monesterio, the end point of my first jaunt on the Camino. Today's walk was divided in roughly two equal halves. The first part was along a country road made of compacted earth. No sooner had we left El Real, and its fortress, behind, we crossed the small, but very significant, stream. This marked the exit from the region of Andalucía and our entry into the Extremadura region. It was also marked by a further ruined castle. The roadway had the now familiar dehesa fields, with holm oaks and Iberian pigs, warming themselves around charcoal fires, and frolicking boisterously in the warmth of the newly risen sun. Eventually the fields of pigs have way to fields of cows and sheep. The oaks became more sparse, as did the vegetation. This change heralded the end of the first section of our walk. The sight of the very modern ermita, or chapel, of St Isidore brought us to the end of the country road, with its gradual incline, to the main road, parallel to the motorway, also called the Ruta de la Plata, and a rather steeper rise, which grew steeper all the 10km to Monesterio.
The change of terrain required a break. So we went to the bar attached to the pig abattoir and curing house of the famous black pigs and their ham. We took advantage of the rule of abstinence being less strictly applied in Spain to taste some of the local produce.
Once on our way, we realised we had no time to lose in getting to Monesterio. The road was less pleasant to walk along, though, as we rose higher towards the town which is 700 metres above sea level, we could look back on some breathtaking scenery. The route of the Camino took us of the main road eventually and on to a rough service road, which increased in gradient until we reached the brow of the hill: and there was the town of Monesterio.
It is a pleasant town built on the proceeds of the pork farming locally. Andy was impressed by the presence of a Ham Museum at the entry to the town,There where a busload of school children were learning about this important cultural reality. There was no time to explore: just time to get the credentials stamped and take the bus. We were waved off on our way by one of our German Camino buddies, Gavin. The bus was late, and we were surrounded by rowdy adolescents, but sleep prevailed until we were back in Seville, ready for a late lunch and the trip to the airport. So that's it for this Camino. ¡Hasta pronto, Camino de Santiago!
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