Day 10: Torremejía to Mérida

The last stage of this second section of the Camino is, thankfully, much shorter than the previous day. We left our hostal in Torremejía straight after breakfast and followed the road North towards Mérida. The first half of the way today follows the road, either by earth path off to the side or the road itself. Fortunately, the newer motorway, parallel to the main road, had taken most of the through traffic, which meant it wasn't busy. Had it been, it could have been quite wearing.

We had originally planned to hang around Mérida and get the later bus, but at this half way point of the day's walk, we realised that we could make the 1pm bus back to Seville. It was at this point that we also got the first view of Mérida, extensive and white in the morning sun. So, continuing without breaks, and at a decent pace, we followed the earth pathway which brought us down into the city. 

Having arrived at Mérida, we finished this second portion of the way at the Roman bridge, but without crossing it. That'll be the starting point for next time. Terry stopped to take a photo of the bridge. Then we headed to the bus station. As I write, we're on the bus back to Seville. It's not long till the next, longer, section of the Vía de la Plata, as far as Salamanca. 

Thanks for following my Camino. I keep all of you in my prayers along the way. Thanks also to all the sponsors and donors to Teenage Cancer Trust. Keep giving!

Day 9: Villafranca de los Barros to Torremejía

We began today's Camino in the shrine church of Our Lady the Crowned Queen in Villafranca. Once we set off we were soon tramping the earth and gravel rural roadways, used mainly for agricultural access, but doubling up as Santiago Camino. 

Most days on the Camino are varied and interesting, each with its own difficulties. Today's stage was challenging simply because it was so flat, unremitting and rather tedious. We passed through very flat vineyards, with the occasional olive grove, but with no interesting features, no animals, no changes in topography. Just a sea upon sea of vines, all bare and looking barren in these winter months. It was only with 10km remaining that we saw the town we were targeting, and the surrounding hills. 

Once into our accommodation, the Hostal Milenium, it was shower, Mass, prayers, drink and dinner - the usual rhythm. Tonight's dinner was less fancy than last night, bus was good down to earth Spanish food and a good local wine. Just the thing after walking through the vineyards.

Tomorrow is the last day of this stage... The road to Mérida.

Day 8: Zafra to Villafranca de Los Barros

Today began with Mass with the lovely Claretian sisters in Zafra. The Claretian chapel and its Museum are really worth a visit, as is Zafra as a town. When I think that it is the same size as one of my parishes - Biddulph - and yet it boasts a castle and wonderful stylish shops, as well as several churches and religious communities, it is a town which bats above its average. Its parish church is quite splendid at least from the outside.

After coffee we headed out of town, helped by an elderly gentleman who told us the way to the St Francis tower, the last remnant of a Franciscan convent which once stood here, as the last outpost of the town. The Camino follows a pathway out of Zafra towards the nearby town of Los Santos de Maimona, only 4km away. There is a hill in between so we felt quite justified in stopping in Santos for a couple of coffees and toast with tomato and ham at the Santiago social centre run by a delightful couple under the name of 'Circle of Friendship'. 

The remaining 15.5km of the day (though I believe it was a little more) passed through vineyards and olive groves, private hunting grounds and pasture. From afar we already saw the town of Villafranca de los Barros, though the optical illusion at play on day 6 revisited us, and left us feeling we were closer to target than was truly the case. We ignored the signs and false yellow arrows which mendaciously tried to lead us to an alternative albergue. The pathway dropped down to where the main transport infrastructure was to be found. Having crossed the railway line, passed under the motorway, and followed the main road for a while, we found ourselves directed on a circuitous route through farm land to enter the town. 

And so, we eventually we arrived at the town of Villafranca de los Barros. Two lessons: seeing where you are heading to, from afar, is a disadvantage psychologically as, in the vastness of the country, it seems closer than it really is; thinking in advance that the shorter days are easier does not prepare you for the final haul involved every day.

Our persistence was rewarded with a kindly welcome from the lady at the Casa Perin hostal. It was even more rewarded by finding (providentially) a restaurant which was far better than we planned on. We were able to feast on roast suckling kid which was a rare delight. The chef, named Jesús, was particularly proud to show us what he could do. We greatly appreciated his efforts on what was otherwise a slow day for him as we were the only diners.

Tomorrow is the longest day...

Day 7: Fuente de Cantos to Zafra

I think a lot of the Christmas pudding and mince pies must have been fully digested as today was easier even though it was longer. It also had the advantage of passing through two pueblos on the way. 

The first section took us to the village of Calzadilla de los Barros. We soon lost sight of Fuente de Cantos with the undulation of the pathway, and only gained sight of Calzadilla when we were already upon it. One innovation in the terrain was that the fields of cereal soon gave way vineyards as we entered the wine making area of Ribera del Guadiana. Calzadilla boasts a striking 15th century church which was, following the custom, locked. We had an early lunchtime sandwich and coffee before hitting the road again. A small group of lads, proud of their recently acquired bikes, no doubt delivered by the Wise Kings only yesterday, were very pleased to greet us with gusto in their limited schoolboy English. Thus we set out on the longest section, over 14km, to Puebla de Sancho Pérez. This pathway took us to a junction withthe Cañada Real along which nomadic herdsmen would drive their livestock to fresh pastures.

The village of Puebla had a rather sleepy feel after the obvious partying of the feast of Epiphany so we decided to kick on through to walk the final 3km to the important and larger town of Zafra.

Zafra was much more alive and so we found a bar where we could have a reviving shandy before taking up residence in our one star hotel, great value at 25 euros a night for a room. After a brief respite and shower, Terry and I headed out to Mass at the modern church of St Michael. I concelebrated with one of the local clergy. 

After Mass we found one of the chattiest owners of a Bar-Restaurant I have ever found. I feel I know his whole family background as well as his philosophy of locally sourced foods and wines too quite a depth. The bacalao Dorado, homemade croquets and black pig cheek all deserve a mention. The Alcázar of Zafra looks wonderful on the evening with floodlighting.

And so ends the second day of the second section of the Camino Vía de la Plata. Here are a few of our animal friends from along the way today.

Day 6: Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

So last night didn't go exactly as planned. The bus company decided to cancel the last bus to Monesterio from Seville, so we had to travel from Seville airport by a rather expensive taxi. It was a Sunday evening prior to a feast day, the Epiphany, which is celebrated in Spain on its correct day, complete with gifts brought by the Magi. I suppose they give Santa Claus a rest. Anyway we arrived in Monesterio in good time for a late dinner before bed.

Today began with the discovery that the 10am Mass at the Tentudía shrine church in Monesterio was cancelled. So, after two coffees, we hit the road. On this stage of the Camino, I'm being accompanied by Terry Stanway from English Martyrs' parish, Biddulph.

As always along the road there are numerous smallholdings with a few livestock, as well as sizeable farms. Just like the last section of the Camino, there were many black Iberian pigs, but also sheep, cows and goats. The sheep are now producing their young and so there were a number of newborn lambs to be seen.

The sheep and lambs were very noisy: not with bleating but rather with cow bells which a number of them wear. While black pigs were normally quite active and trotting around in their dehesa enclosures, today they were quite torpid, lying around. 

The first part of today's journey was mainly flat, walking though dehesa (enclosed farm land with trees, usually Holm oaks). However there were a couple of hills. They weren't exactly steep, but they did make me regret every mince pie, piece of chocolate, Christmas cake and pudding that I've consumed over the Christmas period. Three wonderful and notable thing was being somewhere with views over the vastness of this part of rural Spain, and the utter silence. 

At about the half way point on today's 21km route we saw clearly the end point of our journey: the town of Fuente de Cantos. It seemed really close but we soon discovered, after our lunch stop, that this was an optical illusion. We still had a full 10km to walk, mainly through the midst of cereal fields recently planted out. The sun, which had been with us throughout, really beat down on our vacks as we walked along. Although the official temperature did not rise above 13°, it felt much warmer. Along the route there was a reminder of how far I had come and how far there is still to go.

Eventually we arrived at Fuente de Cantos. Being the siesta time on Feast day it was very quiet, but we gained access to our two bedroom apartment which is very we've appointed with terrace and swimming pool! It's rather cold for a dip though. 

Having consumed no more than two large milky coffees and a small ham sandwich all day, hunger came easily. After two very welcome things - a shower, and Mass (after a disappointment last time I made sure I brought a Mass kit with me this time) - we headed out to the excellent Bar-Restaurant El Gato ("The Cat") for a simple but excellent dinner.

It's great to be out on the Camino again. Tomorrow is a longer section through to the larger town of Zafra.

35% of fundraising target achieved. Thank you!

Thanks to everyone who has supported my fundraising so far. 35% of the £10000 target already achieved. Thank you for your generosity... Keep it up!

Here we go again! The second section begins

I'm at Manchester airport again, flying out to Seville to return to the town of Monesterio in Extremadura to begin the second section of the Camino Vía de la Plata. The aim is to walk the 108km to Mérida Monday to Friday this week. Google maps has it at 99km but the Camino files a slightly different route from that shown on the map, but it gives an idea.