The proof: the stamps on my credential

I thought I would just post a photo of my credential, or pilgrim passport, after the first part of the pilgrimage. You have to have one of these credentials to be an official pilgrim, and to get the benefits, like use of hostels, reduced rates on menus, and ultimately the Compostela certificate at the end of the pilgrimage.

Day 5: El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

One of the corollaries of Spain operating on Central European time, while being considerably further west, is that, in the winter months, day breaks rather later than e are used to. So, as we left our lodging this morning, it was as dark as the middle of the night, with accompanying chill in the air. This was 7.15am. After some looking around, Andy and I found the one bar inhabited by the early birds of the pueblo: workmen in boiler suits and older men looking for an early morning social outlet. No women dared stray into this male bastion of Spanish culture.  The typical breakfast among the patrons seemed to be strong black coffee and a glass of either brandy or aniseed liqueur. So much for the Mediterranean diet.

After our rather tame coffee and pastry, the sun had risen, and we set out for the final 20km walk to Monesterio, the end point of my first jaunt on the Camino. Today's walk was divided in roughly two equal halves. The first part was along a country road made of compacted earth. No sooner had we left El Real, and its fortress, behind, we crossed the small, but very significant, stream. This marked the exit from the region of Andalucía and our entry into the Extremadura region. It was also marked by a further ruined castle. The roadway had the now familiar dehesa fields, with holm oaks and Iberian pigs, warming themselves around charcoal fires, and frolicking boisterously in the warmth of the newly risen sun. Eventually the fields of pigs have way to fields of cows and sheep. The oaks became more sparse, as did the vegetation. This change heralded the end of the first section of our walk. The sight of the very modern ermita, or chapel, of St Isidore brought us to the end of the country road, with its gradual incline, to the main road, parallel to the motorway, also called the Ruta de la Plata, and a rather steeper rise, which grew steeper all the 10km to Monesterio.

The change of terrain required a break. So we went to the bar attached to the pig abattoir and curing house of the famous black pigs and their ham. We took advantage of the rule of abstinence being less strictly applied in Spain to taste some of the local produce.

Once on our way, we realised we had no time to lose in getting to Monesterio. The road was less pleasant to walk along, though, as we rose higher towards the town which is 700 metres above sea level, we could look back on some breathtaking scenery. The route of the Camino took us of the main road eventually and on to a rough service road, which increased in gradient until we reached the brow of the hill: and there was the town of Monesterio.

It is a pleasant town built on the proceeds of the pork farming locally. Andy was impressed by the presence of a Ham Museum at the entry to the town,There where a busload of school children were learning about this important cultural reality. There was no time to explore: just time to get the credentials stamped and take the bus. We were waved off on our way by one of our German Camino buddies, Gavin. The bus was late, and we were surrounded by rowdy adolescents, but sleep prevailed until we were back in Seville, ready for a late lunch and the trip to the airport. So that's it for this Camino. ¡Hasta pronto, Camino de Santiago!

Day 4: Almadén de la Plata to El Real de la Jara

After the long walk yesterday, today's was less than half the length: a mere 13.1km (8.3 miles). It was a very beautiful walk through some exhilarating scenery. This is not the version of the south of Spain known by so many. The Sierra del Norte does not look like the land of the Mediterranean, but is total with a rustic culture all of us own. The labs, the forms of farming, the vegetation, the people...all have more in common with other parts of central Spain than the coastal parts of Andalucía.

Leaving Almadén, Andy and I passed the Plaza de Toros, the bullring. We had a conversation at this point, and at other moments through the day, with the only other pilgrims we have met: two men and a boy from Germany.

We walked through farmland passing by enclosures of goats and black Iberian pigs principally. The first half of the walk was a closer up view of local agriculture.

At the half way point, we came to a steep hill which rose to the same height as the Calvary Hill at the end of yesterday's walk. From the top of the hill looking back, the scenery of green hillsides and small farms, with the dehesa of holm oak trees looked remarkable: a big country with very little human intervention. Looking the other way, westwards, we could see the mountains which divide the region of Andalucía from the next region, which we will enter tomorrow, Extremadura.

The descent from the hill was steeper than the ascent, making it difficult under foot. However, once down, the last 5km were on unsafe road. The first sight we had was of a deer which had been hunted and was waiting for collection. Indeed, shortly afterwards we saw the pickup truck coming to collect the carcass. The last part of the walk was through dehesa, with many black pigs and holm oak trees before we spotted the ruined castle which stands above the town of El Real de la Jara, where we are staying for the last night of this first leg.

Adoration  andMass in the parish church was with the same priest we saw yesterday. He invited me to give the homily after the Gospel. And being one never too refuse a captive audience, I spoke about confidence in God, which is our ultimate salvation. Now to dinner in the local hostelry. It's an early start tomorrow, to get the last 20km done, then the bus back to Seville, and the flight back to Manchester.

Day 3: Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almadén de la Plata

After a rather disturbed night's sleep, I can't say that I began today's stage feeling very much like tackling the longest day of the week at over 29km, or 17.5 miles. The day divided into three parts: the journey by road from Almadén to the entrance to the National Park; the walk through the National Park; the approach to, and walk over, the aptly named Calvary Hill

The first and longest part of the day consists of 10 miles following the provincial road out of Castilblanco northwards. Although it is a minor road there was a lot of fast driving and large trucks. So it was not pleasant walking so close to traffic on the tarmac by the side of the road for a distance of 16km or 10 miles. The countryside around was quite pleasant. But the road, and its sustained ascent, made appreciation of the countryside secondary to getting the distance done. It was quite interesting to see the cork trees having been harvested.

The second part of the day was much more satisfying. The Sierra del Norte national park is a state-owned national park which includes the Finca Vertical, which we traverse as the second part of the stage. Beautiful curated woodland and dehesa: wonderful beauty and delicious silence make this a very peaceful place. The walking is moderate and the surroundings are spectacular.

Leaving the park we began the shortest but most demanding part of today's route: Calvary Hill above Almadén. This wooded hill with dark red soil rises suddenly and abruptly from the park but gives great views over the surrounding countryside, as well as over the village of Almadén.

The Church of Almadén, dedicated to Our Lady of Grace is popular and well supported. I was pleased to be able to concelebrate Holy Mass and to get to know the Parish Priest. We are staying at the Casa Concha, serving delicious local produce, in clouding the flavoursome Iberic ham and dishes. 

Day 2: Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos

Starting out from the Hostal Bar Francés, fortified by a chocolate palmera and coffee, we decided to avoid the ford over the River Rivera de Huelva. Just as well, because we discovered that it was in flood and probably was impossible to pass. So we took the bridge and the main road out of town. As is usual with Spanish towns the was an unpretty industrial estate to navigate before we were on the pathway which would take us most of the way to Castilblanco de los Arroyos.

Right from the edge of the town of Guillena, the route today is a steady climb which is gradual but unremitting. The weather was a heavy mist with drizzle for the first half of the day (fine rain that gets you really wet). The path passed between orange groves on the right and olive groves on the left. The path was made somewhat precarious by being made of clay. The rain made this a very sticky consistency, clogging up the tread of the boots. 

As we emerged on higher ground we spotted a tower which looked medieval. It seemed in tact, while adjoining buildings had collapsed. 

 Continuing uphill we reached the beginning of the northern Seville provincial demarcation and a sign which told us we were on the Cañada Real. These are a network of pathways which crisscross Spain as rights of way for the migration of livestock since the Middle Ages. Soon afterwards, we entered our first dehesa: an enclosed area for grazing livestock, planted out with trees, predominantly holm oaks. The livestock in the dehesa were long horned cattle, which were fortunately rather calm on seeing us pass their way.

We found directions, slightly off the track, to a well. The water looked rather brown, so we didn't partake, but did stop off to eat sandwiches. It was sitting there, by the well that I realised for the first time the absolute silence except for the drops of rain falling from the trees and the birds overhead.

The changes in geology were striking on the way today. First the clay, then the gritty sand, shale, soft sand, back to clay and then ordinary earth. There were no towns and villages on the way, and very little evidence of people, until we hit upon the main road to Castilblanco. We did see a couple of bulls, a wild boar and a black Iberic pig snuffling for acorns. Fortunately they were all behind a fence.

Arriving in Castilblanco, we were met by the lovely Lydia, who owns the excellent Casa Rural Las Lilieras. Casas rurales, or rural houses, are like guest houses but without the breakfast. In fact, Andy and I have the run of the whole house as there are no other guests here tonight. Not bad at €15 per person. Next task is to find the parish church where there should be Mass at 7pm.

Day 1: Seville to Guillena via Santiponce

Today has been a rather misty and rainy day, though not cold. However, it began in a most excellent way with Mass in the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral. Already last night we had some wonderful views from outside. The bell tower, the Giralda, looked quite majestic with its nocturnal illumination.

After the Mass, Andy and I got the sacristan to take a photo of us, together with Jack Shuff's photo which John and Julie, his parents, gave to me before I set off. He'll not be missing any part of the Camino.

Being in the Cathedral before the doors open to the tourists meant we had the place to ourselves, so we had a good look at the famous retableau depicting the life of Christ, the tomb of Christopher Columbus and the beautiful lateral altars and choir.

Immediately outside the Cathedral the Camino of the Vía de la Plata begins. The plaque on the wall of the buildings opposite is the official starting point.

And so we started. The route through the city is interesting, passing some chapels and churches that we popped into for a visit. Having crossed the two branches of the River Guadalquivir, however, it all became rather unpleasant for a few kilometres, with lots of litter, popular fly tipping locations, and deserted fincas. Eventually, after about 9km, we arrived at the small town of Santiponce. The town contains the remains of the original city of Italics, birthplace of the Roman Emperors Trajan and Hadrian. The modern town has Christian origins, being the place where the relics of St Gerontios, first Bishop of Seville, were preserved. 

We had intended a sandwich and coffee in Santiponce, but, being Monday, most places were shut. The only place open specialised in barbecued meats, so we were forced (!) To take advantage. The next 13km followed an old disused Roman road through fields. Mostly it was mild weather, but at one point the rain really came down. We arrived, finally, at our first overnight stop, Guillena. The Hostal Bar Francés welcomed us with a very reasonable €7 menu of the day and perfectly adequate rooms. At least three was lots of hot water for the shower. An early night tonight in preparation for day two is in order. One stage down. Only 43 to do.

Sponsorship

Thank you to all my marvellous sponsors. I have, today, just gone over the 25 per cent mark, on the day I set off on the first stage of the Camino!

Keep the donations coming. Online donations at https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/frjuliancamino

First Stage of the Camino is this week!

So tomorrow I'm flying over to Seville with Andy Connell to start the first stage of the Vía de la Plata. We will be beginning the walk on Monday morning, with Holy Mass in the Royal Chapel of Seville Cathedral. From Seville we will walk to Monesterio - the first place outside of Andalucía, in the region of Extremadura - approximately 100 km, over the course of five days. You can see from the first map that this is about a tenth of the total distance to Santiago de Compostela, which you can see in the top left corner of the map (or the north-west, to those of you more compass minded).

The second map shows in closer detail the approximate route we will follow.

The days pan out as follows:
Monday: Seville Cathedral to Guillena (21.6km)
Tuesday: Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos (18.3km)
Wednesday: Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almadén de la Plata (28.2km - the longest day!)
Thursday: Almadén de la Plata to El Real de la Jara (13.6km - slacking)
Friday: El Real de la Jara to Monesterio (20km)

Keep us in your prayers, and we'll keep you posted on progress!