Day 2: Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos

Starting out from the Hostal Bar Francés, fortified by a chocolate palmera and coffee, we decided to avoid the ford over the River Rivera de Huelva. Just as well, because we discovered that it was in flood and probably was impossible to pass. So we took the bridge and the main road out of town. As is usual with Spanish towns the was an unpretty industrial estate to navigate before we were on the pathway which would take us most of the way to Castilblanco de los Arroyos.

Right from the edge of the town of Guillena, the route today is a steady climb which is gradual but unremitting. The weather was a heavy mist with drizzle for the first half of the day (fine rain that gets you really wet). The path passed between orange groves on the right and olive groves on the left. The path was made somewhat precarious by being made of clay. The rain made this a very sticky consistency, clogging up the tread of the boots. 

As we emerged on higher ground we spotted a tower which looked medieval. It seemed in tact, while adjoining buildings had collapsed. 

 Continuing uphill we reached the beginning of the northern Seville provincial demarcation and a sign which told us we were on the Cañada Real. These are a network of pathways which crisscross Spain as rights of way for the migration of livestock since the Middle Ages. Soon afterwards, we entered our first dehesa: an enclosed area for grazing livestock, planted out with trees, predominantly holm oaks. The livestock in the dehesa were long horned cattle, which were fortunately rather calm on seeing us pass their way.

We found directions, slightly off the track, to a well. The water looked rather brown, so we didn't partake, but did stop off to eat sandwiches. It was sitting there, by the well that I realised for the first time the absolute silence except for the drops of rain falling from the trees and the birds overhead.

The changes in geology were striking on the way today. First the clay, then the gritty sand, shale, soft sand, back to clay and then ordinary earth. There were no towns and villages on the way, and very little evidence of people, until we hit upon the main road to Castilblanco. We did see a couple of bulls, a wild boar and a black Iberic pig snuffling for acorns. Fortunately they were all behind a fence.

Arriving in Castilblanco, we were met by the lovely Lydia, who owns the excellent Casa Rural Las Lilieras. Casas rurales, or rural houses, are like guest houses but without the breakfast. In fact, Andy and I have the run of the whole house as there are no other guests here tonight. Not bad at €15 per person. Next task is to find the parish church where there should be Mass at 7pm.