Day 23: San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca

After yesterday's long day I had a slow start today. It was nice to have a leisurely breakfast before heading out on the road for a 24km walk. No sooner was I out of the hotel than I was on the way out of the village on the Camino track.

The first stop was at only 4km in the village of Morille. What's better than one breakfast? Two breakfasts! The Bar Martin provided the great ambience necessary. A log fire, complete with dog basking in front, and some truly rustic tapas, like braised cockerel combs were on offer. I went for a rather tame pincho of the Spanish Tortilla. A very pleasant stop in the way.

From Morille the first sight of Salamanca in the distance could be had. The rest of the day's stage divides in two equal parts of just under 10. The first part of the way was mainly through dehesa, enclosed farm land with trees. I was grateful of one of the oak trees which provided shelter in a brief 10 minute shower. Underfoot, it wasn't easy because of those small sharp stones on the pressed earth tracks. Eventually the pathway led to a farmhouse and the beginning of a wide and easy roadway. This led to the village of Miranda de Azán, which I had calculated was the halfway point on the journey. It was worth doing something I never do: a selfie next to the village signage. It feels good to be on the second half of the Camino. So much so, I had a hot pork sandwich...

The pathway into Salamanca was more of the same: a wide earth pathway, which narrowed as it began to ascend a typically Castilian flat-topped hill. Atop this hill is the pilgrim cross, where many pilgrims had deposited tokens of their visit. As the sign says on the cross, it is a materially poor cross, but full of sentiment, near to this half way point and with a great view of Salamanca, still 6km ahead. 

Like the entrance to all major towns, the outskirts are horrible. After walking over the rough ground between the motorway and the town, I entered the unattractive areas south of the River, passing the dominating HQ of the Civil Guard. It was however a reunion with an old friend: the N630!

The entrance to the city proper is over the Roman bridge, reminiscent of the bridge at the entrance to Mérida. Like Mérida, it's a long bridge for a small River, this time the Tormes. After the bridge the pathway climbs up to the Cathedral, first part the old Cathedral, then the imposing new Cathedral, joined to it. Part the Casa de Conchas, the Pontifical University and the medieval church of St Martin at the entrance to the famous Plaza Mayor. Here I met up with Simon who is joining me for the next five days.

After a late evening Mass at the eleventh century circular Templar church of St Mark, a good dinner overlooking the Plaza Mayor, where the Town Hall was lit in the colours of the Spanish flag, was the last thing I could manage before a good night's sleep.