Day 28: Zamora to Montamarta

When I looked at today's itinerary while planning it looked like a nice easy day: fairly flat terrain and just 18km. That did not account for the weather! I saw the weather forecast last night and the word to describe the weather in the North-West of Spain waswas chubascos - storms. But first let me return to last night...

After writing my blog post, I ventured out in Zamora to forage for some appropriate Ash Wednesday fare. I found it in the form of chipirrones a la plancha (grilled baby cuttlefish) and gallo (megrim sole). However in the main square there was a noisy ceremony which looked like a parody of a Holy Week religious act. It was the entierro de la sardina (burial of the sardine) which marks the end of the carnaval and the beginning of Lent. I don't know the finer points of the ritual and I didn't hang around longer than the time it took it take a photo, but there was the effigy of a sardine being burnt to the banging of a drum and loud music. As I say, I didn't hang around as there was fish to eat.

Back to today... There are very few photos not just because the terrain was quite flat with few distinguishing points, but also the appalling weather made me want to keep my head down and make progress. Leaving Zamora dressed very fetchingly in my English College Valladolid cap and IKEA waterproof poncho (part of their Knalla range), the first third of the journey was wet but not too bad. The only pueblo on the journey was Roales del Pan. Yes it amused me that it sounds like bread rolls. However the 'del Pan' compliments the 'del Vino' of some of the villages to the south of Zamora, such as El Cubo del Vino. Zamora has both eucharistic elements covered with areas of land specialising in wine and bread, so it seems.

I had my lunch in a busy little bar in Roales. I stayed a bit longer than normal to see if the rain would subside but it only seemed to worsen, so I continued on my way feeling that my poncho offered precious little protection against the elements. The only feature on this stretch was the new AVE high speed train line over which a very high and sturdy bridge has been built.

My host in Montamarta - Alfonso the plumber, who runs the Brunedo Casa Rural (guest house) offered a very warm reception. He is renowned for his friendly disposition, eager conversation and homemade wine and salchichón (salami) which are offered as part of the welcome. So, I'm off out foraging shortly without the restrictions of fasting and abstinence. Wish me luck!