Day 29: Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela

Before speaking about today's stage I need to go back to last night. I was in the village of Montamarta which has two restaurants at opposite ends of the village over a kilometer apart. I was feeling rather shivery because of the day's weather, the cold of the night and my lack of coat, so I went to the nearest. It was in darkness save for one light by the door. I tried the door but it was firmly locked. However, I could hear voices within. I drew back from walking in the harsh cold the over a kilometre to the other place, considering that it too might be shut. So I looked up the telephone number and phoned. I could hear the phone within, and soon it was answered by a friendly sounding lady who took pity on me and let me in through the back door, through the kitchen and into the darkened restaurant. Cauliflower gratin, chicken breast with salad and cheese were laid before me. The restaurant is run by two sisters of a certain age. They were glad of the company and I say with them for a good hour over coffee talking about the Camino, the situation in Ukraine and a missionary project in Sierra Leone that one of the sisters was involved in. I don't know if it's because my conversation meet the mark but the very reasonable €13, a price made up off the top of the heaf, suggested so.

After a disturbed night, not helped by the cold in my room, I woke up not exactly feeling ready for the day ahead. So I returned to my new friends and had Spanish tortilla and milky coffee, sitting next to an open fire, to set me up for the 23km walk.

Leaving Montamarta, I passed the church of Our Lady of the Castle, originally a 14th century Jeronomite convent. The weather today was sunny, but windy like the day before. However I found a nice sheltered spot to sit on a rock and take the sun and the countryside. The temptation was to stay there too long, so I got back into gear. Since the motorway and high speed rail were built in the last ten years this leg of the Camino had changed such that you are never far from the reminder of the age of speed and noise.

 However there are reminders of another age. Just short of one of the two intermediate villages, Fontanillas de Castro, I suddenly came upon the ruins of the fortified Medieval town of Castrotorafe. Founded in the twelfth century, it is often referred to as Old Zamora. It stands on the banks of the Río Esla, though this River now forms part of the Ricobayo reservoir. That is in theory currently, though, as it seems the whole reservoir has been drained.

Bypassing Fontanillas, I walked the further 4km to Riego del Camino, which has a bar! My lunch was... Once again Spanish tortilla. That's the problem of another day of abstinence. Everywhere I have been today they have offered me a whole list of meat items, but no fish. The only option is omelette.

Finally, after a further 7km, I arrived at a very important point: Granja de Moreruela. This is my last point on the Vía de la Plata, the ancient Roman road which continues north to Astorga. Just by the Church of St John the Evangelist, there are two signs, one old, one new, which inform the pilgrim that this is the place of the bifurcation of the two routes: the continuation of the Via de la Plata, which joins on to the French Camino, and the Sanabrian Way, which I will be following. To make it clear, there is then a sign showing the way to follow each. Because I'm staying in a lovely early 19th century casa rural, just up the road, I can claim that I have already started the Camino Sanabrés, as I've walked 20 yards of it. Tomorrow, the road to Tábara, a walk of 25km.