My original thought was to walk directly on arriving the six kilometres to the main town of Sanabria, Puebla de Sanabria. This had already been binned as an idea and this was confirmed by the weather on arrival in Sanabria, as the heavens opened. So we took a taxi to our overnight accommodation in Puebla and had a good introductory menu of the day dinner.
On Sunday morning, after Mass and breakfast, we returned to Otero village to begin where I had left off. Arriving at Otero mid-morning, the first thing that was noticeable was the loud blaring tacky synthesised religious music which could be heard throughout the village. No doubt the parish priest thought it to be a great way of drumming up trade for Mass. The other thing about Otero is it is quite abandoned with only 24 permanent residents and a host of old interesting houses left to rack and ruin some generations ago. It is the depressing sight of the results of rural depopulation. We began the leg of the Camino outside the other church in the village by a cross commemorating a mission at the end of the nineteenth century.
Following minor roads and country paths on this first part of today's stage, the 6km to Puebla, we soon arrived in another small and depopulated village called Triufé. Coming out of the village we gained sight, once again, of Puebla de Sanabria, which came into sight. Puebla is the main town in the Sanabrian area. It is built on a rock which forms a peninsula bounded on three sides by the Rivers Tera and Castro. It is a real magnet for tourists who come to see the 800 year old town and its monumental medieval buildings, but also to visit the area which is one of outstanding natural beauty and biodiversity. Indeed on this day's walk we saw three different breeds of lizard. Approaching the town over the bridge over the Tera, the parish church and castle at the pinnacle of the town overshadow the visitor, inviting us upwards to explore further. There is a more modern part to the town but the Camino route took us up the steep medieval street, lined with the manor houses of the wealthy residents of Puebla of past centuries, leading into the Plaza Mayor. At the entrance to the square is a plaque commemorating the 800 years of the town from two years ago. Here also is the town hall, the Romanesque parish church and the castle. We were able to visit the church briefly where Sunday Mass was just beginning. One curious sight is that there is another church right next to the parish church, built out of private devotion. This church, built at a slight angle, at one corner almost touches the parish church so that only a small child could fit between them.
Coming down from the highest point of the town, it was time to get an early lunch. The local smoky chorizo and wild Boletus mushroom, which grow in the fields arrive Sanabria, were obvious choices to try out some local delicacies.
After lunch, we made the rest of the way down the hill from Puebla, to start the longer 12km section to Requejo. Alternating between soft farm tracks and woodland paths and the hardness of the ashphalt N525 we made the journey in the afternoon sun. There was some real heat in the sun so it was a relief to follow the Camino into the Pinar de Terroso, a pine wood, with neatly planted trees, leading towards the village of Terroso. Almost a kilometer before the village you come upon the parish church dedicated to St James the Apostle. There was a little shrine to our patron saint of the Camino, as well as a stone staircase up to the bells of the Campanile of the church. It was an interesting spot to stop of a brief repose.
The ubiquitous stone plaque announcing in florid language the virtues of the village and the welcome for the pilgrim were not matched by any actual facilities in the village of Terroso. Furthermore, the building of the motorway nearby meant that following the traditional route of the Camino took us over two motorway bridges. It was worth it for the route through the wooded area between Terroso and Requejo is quite beautiful. In no time we arrived at our destination, a small town with rather more going for it. A flat above the albergue and a bar-restaurant next door mean we are well provided for on this overnight stop.
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