Day 32: Camarzana de Tera to Rionegro del Puente

It was good to wake up today knowing that I had a shorter stage: only 21km. And so, after my regulation two cups of coffee I headed down to the bridge over the River Tera to start today's walk. The weather was lovely, not too warm but sunny, and following the river, seeing the light glistening was a good way up start the day. 

Today was a day of visiting villages. The first village on the way was Calzadilla de Tera, which was sizeable enough, but with very little to recommend it. What I mean is: it has no bar! It has three churches, however. The old church, which is falling down; the new church, which is ugly; and the little chapel or hermitage, which is obviously the most loved. I sat in the square for a while, before moving on to the next village which was very near: Olleros de Tera. This is a village for the most relaxed people as nothing seems to open before 12 noon. I waited for the bar to open and was rewarded with a warm welcome and a very nice plate of grilled sweetbreads which the lady of the house cooked with evident expertise.

The bar owner came out to the road afterwards to ensure I was set on the right road to take up the Camino again. By this time the sun had become quite powerful as I set out along the way which was marked by a very old sign. Not far along the path is the shrine church of Our Lady of Agavanzal. Right by the church was an elderly gentleman on a bike who greeted me. I had been trying to cover up against the sun, but he was of the opinion that it was quite cold. Nonetheless, he was very warm with his greeting and wanted to know how far I would walk today. He told me he had come to the shrine to pray for peace in the world. It is wonderful to meet such saints in day to day life.

The conflicting messages of the various painted yellow arrows as I approached the reservoir of Our Lady of Agavanzal offered the danger of ignoring the danger signs and following a shorter way through the woods or the long and circuitous route following a formerly tarmacked road. I took the safe option which eventually brought me down to the dam of the reservoir. Crossing the dam gave great views not only of the reservoir but also looking downstream beyond the hydroelectric station. The path then followed the edge of the reservoir. I could not help but have a suit down at the edge of the water. It was so tempting to take off my boots and dip my feet in the beautifully clear and chill water, but fear of blisters stopped me. 

As I sat there, the clouds appeared and bright an end to be warmth of the sun. In fact, by the time I reached the next village, Villar de Farfón, it was quite chilly. In that village, the small hostel is run by a travelling evangelical missionary family. I stopped off for a cold drink, and soon realised how cold I had become. 

I now only had six kilometres to walk to the next village, and the end of today's section. The path became a rocky sandy pathway firstly through dehesa and then through woodland. As the path rose up in height, I looked out over acre upon acre of similar mature woodland. Coming from a country where it is difficult to find such expanses of unpopulated and unspoilt landscape, I realised how not only Spain but also something seemingly so small as Zamora province is actually vast. 

It was becoming evening when I finally arrived in Rionegro del Puente. True to its name it has a bridge. In fact, two. And also true to its name it has a river which is black not only in name but also, looking from above, in nature, as you might see from the photo. Tonight I am staying in the pilgrims' hostel as it is the only place to stay in this village. I joined up with my new Norwegian friend again and later we were joined by another pilgrim from Hungary. I feel like the tourist compared to a guy who does 50km days. But we each follow the Camino in our own way, and God finds his way to us in the midst of the Way.

Day 31: Tábara to Camarzana de Tera

As always, I seem to look back to the previous evening at the beginning of these posts. Last night I had dinner in the bar-restaurant attached to the hotel where I was staying. I happened to sit on a table adjacent to another lone diner. He briefly introduced himself as a Norwegian pilgrim. This morning we happened to coincide in the bar at breakfast, and it turns out he is an evangelical pastor. It was interesting how we coincided in ways of thinking about life, the Church, etc. We agreed to walk separately, but to have dinner together in the evening. A very providential meeting.

So, heading out on today's section, I began in good step and decided to sing

Lauds as I went along the road. Once off the main road, it was back on to the compressed earth pathways which traverse the farmland of Spain. I heard again, for the first time since Extremadura, the sound of cowbells, not on cows, but on goats and sheep, guarded by quite vociferous dogs. The terrain was more undulating as I journeyed through this first part of today's section. At one point I can't across a couple of deer who didn't quite know how to react to me, but hung around long enough for me to photograph them. Once again there was three option presented by a bifurcation. Either to travel the traditional route, with no bar or food, or via Villanueva de las Peras where there was the promise of a bar and food. I give no bonus points to anyone guessing which way I went.

When I got to Villanueva de las Peras, I made for the one restaurant, where lots of people were gathered. The tables were beautifully set for a banquet. I was informed that one of the villagers was 100 years old and that the restaurant had been booked out for his birthday lunch. Nonetheless, they took pity on a pilgrim, and put me in the back room, used only in summer for diners, and served me a beautiful plate of embutidos and cheese and a salad, all served on the all too familiar Churchill pottery. It was the perfect lunch for a Sunday and for a day on the Camino. Villanueva de las Peras was half way on the day's journey. The owner advised me not to go back to the Camino, as it involved extra kilometres, but to take the road out of town. So I followed his advice.

On each day I use a variety of tools to help me find the way. And so I put my final destination today - Camarzana - into my Google maps search. Not only did it advise me not to seek out the official Camino path but to take a completely different route which would shave a could of kilometres off the total for the day 

So, on the road out of Villanueva, I eventually took a farmlike road through old woodlands, which took me not to Santa Croya and Santa Marta, but through a beautifully tranquil natural park of holm oak and other trees which led me to the little village of Melgar de Tera. This was really completely off course for the Camino, but I loved finding my own way through completely silent and unspoilt pathways.

The natural park park emerged at the top of the hill above Melgar. From there I had not only the view of the villages ahead to lead me to lodging for the night, but also a first view of the Sanabrian hills through which I would journey in the days ahead. Within a kilometre I was in the village and enjoying a coffee in the bar, full of old gent cronies playing cards on a Sunday afternoon. I still had five kilometres to walk and so set off along the road to Pumarejo, which mostly I bypassed to take the road towards Camarzana to find tonight's lodging. Crossing the River Tera, along which tomorrow's route will set out, I found my way to the village of Camarzana in no time and the Hotel Juan Manuel. Here I caught up with my new Norwegian friend with whom I dined, sharing a really experience of life over dinner and a copa.

Day 30: Granja de Moreruela to Tábara

I must comment, first of all, on the house I stayed in last night. Casas rurales can take various forms but the best of them are country houses that were extended family homes in villages which have become surplus to necessity. A bit of doing up and they become wonderful 'one off' rustic places to stay. You can either rent a room or the whole house depending on your need. The house I stayed in last night is the house of an uncle who died with no children of his own, and the nieces, retaining all the original features, have made it into a very special place to stay. The wonderful patio which one enters through a great oak door would be perfect for a summer gathering. Inside, the rustic charm is complemented by modern central heating and plumbing. I took a room for 30 euros for which, there being no other guests that night, I had the whole house to myself. Tiredness and the need for an early night meant I didn't take full advantage.

On with the Camino! So today we begin the Camino Sanabrés. The signpost at the edge of the village gives you the last chance to change your mind which Camino you are going to do, and I was firmly set on the Ourense route. Bypassing the beautiful former Cistercian monastery of Granja (opens at 11am, so add that to a list of places to visit on a future trip), I started off on the first section of today's walk: 6.5km to the bridge over the river. This was a beautiful walk, firstly on wide agricultural pathways and then entering Mediterranean style woodland with holm oaks. At one point I stopped as I realised there was absolute silence and beauty: the very heart of the Camino. 

Emerging from the woodland onto the quiet provincial road, I spotted that I was not alone. A goatherd was sitting by the road smoking a long pipe, while two donkeys stood by, about twenty goats grazed, and a faithful dog stood watch. We observed each other as I approached, exchanged pleasantries, and that was that. Shortly I arrived at the bridge, the Puente Quintos. It was built about 100 years ago to become the main way to cross the River Esla which, as I mentioned yesterday, had been dammed to form a reservoir. The reservoir is currently drained so the river makes its silent journey through the verdant valley. 

On the other side of the bridge, another choice of Camino to make. I had seen the up and down profile of the next section and when I saw the sign warning about the unevenness, I took the alternative, walking by the side of the road for the next 11km through to the village of Faramontanos de Tábara which I had identified as a good spot for lunch. The road was quiet and not exciting, but it got to where it was going. 

Arriving in Faramontanos, I met a local character. Javier has no legs and gets around the village in his electric mobility scooter. When I saw him he was picking some fennel from the side of the road. Giving me a piece to smell he asked me all about my journey. When I revealed that I was asking sustinence, he accompanied me right to the door of the bar-restaurant. The price for his consideration: a coffee which I was happy to order for him. Lunch was typical rustic food - stewed lentils and pork - with a glass of local wine (no label to allow me to be more specific). Again, another bargain at €10 for the meal!

Getting my legs into the idea that the day hasn't finished and that they have more walking to do is never easy after an hour of rest. Those final 7km sections look short, but when you're tired, they drag. The first half of this section was on wide farm tracks but with beautiful green hills on one side making the scenery reminiscent of home. The second and final section was more woodland, interrupted only by the bridge over the new high speed railway. Right on cue, an AVE train passed as I stood on the bridge. True to form it was fast; too fast for me to get the video option up on my phone...

As I entered Tábara, it felt like more of a place that is lived in than so many other villages I have passed through. The central square with a couple of bars already had some gents who seemed to have settled in for the day. And so to my room. So, four days of the eight of this section done, andand only 345km to Santiago!

Day 29: Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela

Before speaking about today's stage I need to go back to last night. I was in the village of Montamarta which has two restaurants at opposite ends of the village over a kilometer apart. I was feeling rather shivery because of the day's weather, the cold of the night and my lack of coat, so I went to the nearest. It was in darkness save for one light by the door. I tried the door but it was firmly locked. However, I could hear voices within. I drew back from walking in the harsh cold the over a kilometre to the other place, considering that it too might be shut. So I looked up the telephone number and phoned. I could hear the phone within, and soon it was answered by a friendly sounding lady who took pity on me and let me in through the back door, through the kitchen and into the darkened restaurant. Cauliflower gratin, chicken breast with salad and cheese were laid before me. The restaurant is run by two sisters of a certain age. They were glad of the company and I say with them for a good hour over coffee talking about the Camino, the situation in Ukraine and a missionary project in Sierra Leone that one of the sisters was involved in. I don't know if it's because my conversation meet the mark but the very reasonable €13, a price made up off the top of the heaf, suggested so.

After a disturbed night, not helped by the cold in my room, I woke up not exactly feeling ready for the day ahead. So I returned to my new friends and had Spanish tortilla and milky coffee, sitting next to an open fire, to set me up for the 23km walk.

Leaving Montamarta, I passed the church of Our Lady of the Castle, originally a 14th century Jeronomite convent. The weather today was sunny, but windy like the day before. However I found a nice sheltered spot to sit on a rock and take the sun and the countryside. The temptation was to stay there too long, so I got back into gear. Since the motorway and high speed rail were built in the last ten years this leg of the Camino had changed such that you are never far from the reminder of the age of speed and noise.

 However there are reminders of another age. Just short of one of the two intermediate villages, Fontanillas de Castro, I suddenly came upon the ruins of the fortified Medieval town of Castrotorafe. Founded in the twelfth century, it is often referred to as Old Zamora. It stands on the banks of the Río Esla, though this River now forms part of the Ricobayo reservoir. That is in theory currently, though, as it seems the whole reservoir has been drained.

Bypassing Fontanillas, I walked the further 4km to Riego del Camino, which has a bar! My lunch was... Once again Spanish tortilla. That's the problem of another day of abstinence. Everywhere I have been today they have offered me a whole list of meat items, but no fish. The only option is omelette.

Finally, after a further 7km, I arrived at a very important point: Granja de Moreruela. This is my last point on the Vía de la Plata, the ancient Roman road which continues north to Astorga. Just by the Church of St John the Evangelist, there are two signs, one old, one new, which inform the pilgrim that this is the place of the bifurcation of the two routes: the continuation of the Via de la Plata, which joins on to the French Camino, and the Sanabrian Way, which I will be following. To make it clear, there is then a sign showing the way to follow each. Because I'm staying in a lovely early 19th century casa rural, just up the road, I can claim that I have already started the Camino Sanabrés, as I've walked 20 yards of it. Tomorrow, the road to Tábara, a walk of 25km.

Day 28: Zamora to Montamarta

When I looked at today's itinerary while planning it looked like a nice easy day: fairly flat terrain and just 18km. That did not account for the weather! I saw the weather forecast last night and the word to describe the weather in the North-West of Spain waswas chubascos - storms. But first let me return to last night...

After writing my blog post, I ventured out in Zamora to forage for some appropriate Ash Wednesday fare. I found it in the form of chipirrones a la plancha (grilled baby cuttlefish) and gallo (megrim sole). However in the main square there was a noisy ceremony which looked like a parody of a Holy Week religious act. It was the entierro de la sardina (burial of the sardine) which marks the end of the carnaval and the beginning of Lent. I don't know the finer points of the ritual and I didn't hang around longer than the time it took it take a photo, but there was the effigy of a sardine being burnt to the banging of a drum and loud music. As I say, I didn't hang around as there was fish to eat.

Back to today... There are very few photos not just because the terrain was quite flat with few distinguishing points, but also the appalling weather made me want to keep my head down and make progress. Leaving Zamora dressed very fetchingly in my English College Valladolid cap and IKEA waterproof poncho (part of their Knalla range), the first third of the journey was wet but not too bad. The only pueblo on the journey was Roales del Pan. Yes it amused me that it sounds like bread rolls. However the 'del Pan' compliments the 'del Vino' of some of the villages to the south of Zamora, such as El Cubo del Vino. Zamora has both eucharistic elements covered with areas of land specialising in wine and bread, so it seems.

I had my lunch in a busy little bar in Roales. I stayed a bit longer than normal to see if the rain would subside but it only seemed to worsen, so I continued on my way feeling that my poncho offered precious little protection against the elements. The only feature on this stretch was the new AVE high speed train line over which a very high and sturdy bridge has been built.

My host in Montamarta - Alfonso the plumber, who runs the Brunedo Casa Rural (guest house) offered a very warm reception. He is renowned for his friendly disposition, eager conversation and homemade wine and salchichón (salami) which are offered as part of the welcome. So, I'm off out foraging shortly without the restrictions of fasting and abstinence. Wish me luck!

Day 27: Villanueva de Campeán to Zamora

Finally I am able to write another entry on this blog after almost two years of waiting to return to the Camino. I set off on Shrove Tuesday evening flying to Madrid and then spending overnight in the city centre. It was a late arrival, getting to the hostal about 11pm, and a fairly early start, getting up to be able to catch the 8am train from Chamartin station to Zamora. With high speed rail the journey is only a little over an hour, which is not bad for 235km. 

So I arrived in Zamora at just after 9am and, after coffee in the station bar, for a taxi to take me back to the place where I decided to abandon the Camino at the onset of the COVID pandemic: Villanueva de Campeán. Now, Villanueva is a small village, but two years ago there were two albergues and a bar - the bar where I had decided to get home to avoid the Spanish lockdown. Two years on, both albergues are closed, awaiting renovation, and the bar was closed too. In fact, I couldn't find a single person in the village who could stamp my credencial or pilgrim passport. So I left this moribund village and made my way along the sandy earth track which is the form that the Camino takes here mostly. 

I made a short detour from the Camino to take in the village of San Marcial, which has a bar which was open! It was midmorning, so time for a coffee and to buy water, which I had expected to be able to obtain in Villanueva, but had to wait the 5km till I got to this small village. The bar owner, like the taxi driver earlier, took a great interest in my journey and were pleasant and helpful.

Being a day of fasting and abstinence I didn't have anything other than the coffee, but the water for the journey was essential. I was soon on my way again. Zamora, like a number of towns along the way, was visible from afar. The flat terrain and lack of anything in the line of sight to give an idea of distance means that the destination seemed closer than the 13km that the road sign indicated. The route bypasses the two villages of El Perdigón and Entrala on the right, and an industrial estate on the left. Six kilometres out of Zamora, a fellow pilgrim from Germany caught me up and we walked the last hour and a half together. He was a seasoned pilgrim and we shared a good conversation about pilgrimage and world affairs, focusing of course on the Russia/Ukraine conflict, but also taking in the beauty of this small city on the River Duero and its simple unspoilt Romanesque architecture. Crossing the puente de piedra (the stone bridge, to distinguish it from the iron bridge further along the river), we emerged in the heart of Zamora.

We arrived in Zamora earlier than I had expected in time for a rest to catch up on missed sleep and relax a little before going for some dinner and an early night.

Finally returning to the Camino

Almost two years after returning home without completing the leg that I intended, I am finally returning to the Camino with the aim of walking 8 days from Villanueva de Campeán to Otero se Sanabria. I'll be starting the walk on Ash Wednesday and finishing the section on the following Wednesday. That will then leave a final twelve days to be completed later in the year (Deo Volente).